The island of Asinara, one of the paradises of northern Sardinia, is a place of enchanting untouched wilderness, surrounded by the transparency of a crystal-clear sea that touches every shade of turquoise.
It is a remote and sometimes hostile place. Its territory is mostly mountainous, with high and rugged coastlines covered by the typical vegetation of the Mediterranean maquis and, in contrast to this rugged terrain, it offers beautiful, unspoilt beaches that attract many visitors in search of still authentic places to relax and regenerate.
The island can be reached by boat and you can choose to visit it on organized tours or on your own.
The history of Asinara and its prisons
Due to its strategic position in the Mediterranean, the history of Asinara has seen many battles and the succession of many peoples.
The first human settlements date back to the Neolithic period, as evidenced by several archaeological sites such as the Domus de Janas, a prehistoric rock tomb in the north of the island.
Phoenicians and Greeks landed on the island during their voyages, and later the Romans used it as a transit point on the Mediterranean trade routes.
After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, it fell into the hands of the Vandals and later of the Byzantine Empire.
It was during this period that the first Arab occupations took place and the population was forced to retreat from the coast, leaving the island to its fate.
With the birth of the Maritime Republics, which vied for control of the Mediterranean, Asinara was again disputed between the Republics of Genoa and Pisa, until the Malaspina family built the castle on the Fornelli massif to control traffic in the strait.
In 1885, by royal decree, Asinara became state property and the Sardinian peasants and Ligurian fishermen who lived on the island (about 500) were expelled and forced to move to the Sardinian coast, where they settled and founded the village of Stintino.
The island was used as a quarantine for tuberculosis patients and also became an agricultural penal colony.
The whole island became a prison camp for Austro-Hungarian soldiers during the First World War.
In the 1970s, Asinara became completely inaccessible due to the construction of the maximum security prison for the detention of criminals, especially terrorists, bandits belonging to the Anonymous Sarda and the most dangerous mafiosi, who were subject to the harsh 41 bis prison regime.
This penal system, one of the harshest in Italian history, consisting of extremely strict controls and the impossibility of escape, has earned the island the nickname of Alcatraz of Italy.
Prison buildings, disused and abandoned for years, are still visible, a reminder of the island's sad past, contrasting with the paradise of turquoise sea and white beaches.
It was not until 1997 that the prison was closed and the island reopened to visitors.
Almost a century of isolation has preserved the island's wild and unspoilt nature.
The Asinara National Park
In 1997, following the closure of the prisons, the Asinara National Park was created, a protected natural area 18 kilometres long and 52 square kilometres in area, which covers the entire island and has since then become everyone's heritage.
The island's unspoilt natural beauty is accessible to visitors, but with absolute respect for this rare environmental treasure.
If you want to visit the nature reserve, you can rely on one of the many tour companies that organize tours around the island.
The territory of Asinara includes more than 100 km of coastline; the western coast is high and rocky, with steep slopes that descend into the sea (there are numerous caves), while the eastern coast is lower and full of small coves.
The best way to reach and visit these coves (many of which are inaccessible on foot), and to make the most of your time, is definitely by boat.
It is of course possible to visit the island in complete autonomy.
However, it is important to know that in order to protect the island, private motorized vehicles are absolutely not allowed on the island and the introduction of pets is also strictly forbidden outside the urban areas of Cala d'Oliva and Cala Reale.
Not all of the island is open to the public: in fact, there are completely protected areas, indicated by clearly visible signs with the letter A, where not only bathing is prohibited, but also access on foot. The same restriction applies to the sea, where yellow buoys mark the boundaries of the protected area.
The island is criss-crossed by a single cemented road, 25km long, which starts from Fornelli and runs north along the eastern side to Cala d'Oliva.
From here, a number of dirt tracks branch off to connect the many beaches and abandoned prisons.
The road from Fornelli to Cala Reale is spectacular, but many stretches of coastline are inaccessible to visitors because they are part of the Total Reserve, where access is prohibited.
The vegetation is typical of the mediterranean scrub, with low bushes and a few trees with higher foliage. Along the coasts we can find wild fennel, rock gorse, Phoenician juniper, mastic trees, a widespread species of euphorbia that flowers in spring, and many endemic species such as the asinara limonium and the spiny cornflower.
The name “Asinara” derives from the presence of a unique indigenous breed of white donkeys that live in the wild and have become the symbol of the island.
There are currently ninety of them.
In addition to the wild donkey, the island's most characteristic animal, hares, weasels, wild boars and moufflons also coexist.
Not all of the island is open to the public: in fact, there are completely protected areas, indicated by clearly visible signs with the letter A, where not only bathing is prohibited, but also access on foot. The same restriction applies to the sea, where yellow buoys mark the boundaries of the protected area.
The island is criss-crossed by a single cemented road, 25km long, which starts from Fornelli and runs north along the eastern side to Cala d'Oliva.
From here, a number of dirt tracks branch off to connect the many beaches and abandoned prisons.
The road from Fornelli to Cala Reale is spectacular, but many stretches of coastline are inaccessible to visitors because they are part of the Total Reserve, where access is prohibited.
The vegetation is typical of the mediterranean scrub, with low bushes and a few trees with higher foliage. Along the coasts we can find wild fennel, rock gorse, Phoenician juniper, mastic trees, a widespread species of euphorbia that flowers in spring, and many endemic species such as the asinara limonium and the spiny cornflower.
The name “Asinara” derives from the presence of a unique indigenous breed of white donkeys that live in the wild and have become the symbol of the island.
There are currently ninety of them.
In addition to the wild donkey, the island's most characteristic animal, hares, weasels, wild boars and moufflons also coexist.
The most beautiful beaches of Asinara
The coves of Asinara are numerous and are set like jewels in the jagged cliffs.
Some beaches are easily accessible, while access to others is prohibited in order to protect the fragile ecosystem.
It is therefore best to be well informed about the park's regulations, which specify which areas are inaccessible and also beaches where swimming is not permitted.
Accessible beaches
Cala Stagno Lungo: a small white sandy beach protected by cliffs and Mediterranean scrub, which contrasts with the beautiful blue-green tones of the shallow transparent seabed.
A platform on the cliff gives access to the sea.
Cala dei detenuti or Sa Murighessa: not far from the beach of Cala d'Oliva, it is surrounded by a pine grove in an enchanting cove with water of breathtaking blue and transparency. In the summer there is a platform for easy access to the sea. Suitable for snorkelling.
Cala d'Oliva: located in the northeast of the island, this small beach with white sand and clear water is surrounded by lush vegetation typical of the Mediterranean scrub and is sheltered from the winds.
Cala Sabina: an unmissable beach in the north of the island. It can be reached by a path that takes about half an hour.
You can swim and snorkel in its transparent waters, which are rich in fish.
Non-accessible beaches
Cala Sant'Andrea: one of the most beautiful beaches of Asinara, inside the protected marine area. It is a cove of fine, white sand, surrounded by lush vegetation. The sea is crystal clear with different shades of turquoise.
Access to this beach is forbidden as it is under environmental protection.
Cala Sgombro di dentro: a fascinating cove immersed in the Mediterranean maquis, characterized by the variety of its colors; the white granite rock that rises from the sea, forming islets, contrasts with all the shades of the bright blue of the sea and the green of the vegetation. It is one of the most indented coves of Asinara, accessible only by sea. Access is not allowed.
Cala Trabuccato: a corner of paradise with tropical transparency. It is quite a long beach compared to the other beaches on the island and it is located in the protected area. It can therefore only be visited by boat, but swimming is not allowed.
Cala d'Arena: certainly one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, a jewel set in a remarkable landscape and dominated by the Aragonese Tower. This cove is also on the list of areas with full protection and is therefore off limits.
How to visit Asinara
The island of Asinara can only be reached by sea, either by private boat or by ferry from Porto Torres or Stintino, stopping at Fornelli or Cala Reale.
The fastest way is to start from Stintino and reach Fornelli, south of Asinara, in about 20 to 30 minutes.
Connections between the tourist port of Stintino and Fornelli are provided by the Linea del Parco and S.B. Service with small boats.
Alternatively, you can embark from Porto Torres and arrive in Cala Reale after a one and a quarter hour ferry ride.
The service between Porto Torres and Cala Reale is operated by the company Delcomar from the commercial port of Porto Torres.
Motorized vehicles are not allowed on the ferries, only bicycles for an extra charge.
You can decide to visit the island by taking advantage of the many services offered by tourist agencies, such as excursions, guided tours by various means: 4x4, sailing boat or catamaran, canoe, little train or even on horseback.
Or you can visit the island on your own: on foot, by bus, by bicycle or by hiring an electric car.
What to do on the island
Trekking in Asinara
For nature lovers, there are seven different trekking routes to explore the island.
Walking is the best way to get to know the island, being in close contact with nature and enjoying breathtaking views that cannot be seen in any other way.
In order to follow these routes, it is advisable to wear protective clothing against the sun (especially in summer) and the wind, to carry a good supply of water, and not to stray from the marked paths or enter protected areas.
- Sentiero del granito (Granite trail): starting from Fornelli, the trail runs along the coastal road of the Santa Maria plain to the three granite quarries. The route is about 11 km long with a difference in altitude of 73 m.Duration of the walk: 3.30 hours.
- Sentiero del Castellaccio: it starts from the Fornelli landing stage and climbs to the ruins of the castle (the Castellaccio) overlooking the island. It is a panoramic route of about 8 km that takes about 2½ hours to walk, with a rather steep climb at the end.
- Sentiero dell'Acqua (Water Trail): a fairly easy and well-marked loop trail, one of the most popular among trekkers.Starting from the Fornelli jetty, it passes near the sea, brackish ponds, rivers, wells, springs, watering places and small dams. It is about 7 km long and takes one hour and three quarters to walk.
- Sentiero della Memoria (Memory Trail): from the Cala Reale visitor centre, a trail retraces the island's past, from the search for the oldest human traces to the most recent; from the pre-nuragic caves of Domus de Janas to the Piana di Campus Perdu and the Austro-Hungarian ossuary, in a 5.5 km walk that takes about an hour and a half.
- Sentiero dell'Asino Bianco (White Donkey Trail): this two-hour trail also starts from Cala Reale. Going towards Cala Trabuccato, along the road that runs alongside the sea, you will come across an old Aragonese tower dating back to the 17th century. Along the route, which is about 8 kilometers long, it is easy to come across white donkeys.
- Sentiero del Leccio (Holm Oak Trail): this starts from the small coastal village of Cala d'Oliva and covers more than 13 kilometres in about four and a half hours.Along the way there are several rest areas, canals and springs that flow between the holm oaks. From the sea, the route passes through areas such as Case Bianche and Punta Scomunica, the highest point on the island.
- Sentiero del Faro (Lighthouse path): from the highest part of the village of Cala d'Oliva, follow the signs to Punta Sabina and take the dirt road that leads to the lighthouse. The route is 18 km long, with a difference in altitude of 120 m, and takes about 5.30 hours.
Visiting Asinara by electric bike
Another way to explore the island independently is to rent a bicycle or mountain bike at the ports of Fornelli or Cala d'Oliva. Or, as mentioned above, you can take your own bike on the ferry.
Many of the trekking routes can also be covered in whole or in part by bike.
>> Rent an electric bike to discover the island of Asinara from Porto Torres
Visiting Asinara by electric car
If you want to visit Asinara independently with a comfortable means of transport, the best choice is an electric car. It can be hired in Fornelli and Cala Reale (it is advisable to book well in advance, especially in high season) and can carry a maximum of four people.
Electric cars can only be driven on the cemented road (not the dirt road) that connects Fornelli with Cala D'Oliva.
This is a very scenic road and allows you to reach the main places of interest.
Visit Asinara by train
From Fornelli it is possible to take a guided day trip on a rubber-tyred train.
This solution is particularly suitable for groups and school groups.
The tour lasts a whole day and is organized by the maritime transport operators.
On board the train is an exclusive park guide who tells the history of the island and gives information about the local flora and fauna.
The little train travels slowly along the cement road that crosses a large part of the island for 25 km: the main road from Fornelli to Cala d'Oliva.
Several stops are planned to allow people to admire and photograph the views and wildlife.
Stops are made near places of major interest, such as the former Fornelli high-security prison, whose structure dates back to 1800. Until recently, it was possible to visit the inside of the cells, but today all the buildings are unfortunately in a state of disrepair.
Near Cala S. Andrea you can stop at the point where you can see the sea and get off the train to admire the landscape.
There are also spontaneous stops to observe and photograph the white and grey donkeys in the wild.
Lunch is taken at Cala Stagno Lungo, where in summer you can cool off in the crystal clear waters.
Otherwise, you can visit CRAMA, the “sea turtle hospital” and marine animal recovery centre, in Cala Reale, where there used to be an agricultural colony and a hospital.
In the afternoon, we will head towards Cala D'Oliva, an old village dating back to the 18th century, and the tour will continue with other interesting stops at important scenic spots such as Cala Trabuccato.
Visiting Asinara by jeep
For those who want to explore the island off the beaten track, it is possible to book an organized 8-hour tour in a 4x4 with driver, leaving from Fornelli to discover almost all the coves and breathtaking landscapes that cannot be reached by car or train.
>> Learn more about how to book a 4x4 excursion in Asinara National Park
Visiting Asinara by boat
The island can also be reached by one’s own boat, reserving a mooring in one of the coves equipped for this purpose (some are reserved for sailing boats only).
It is advisable to book well in advance, especially in high season, as places are limited.
Visiting Asinara by sailboat
It is possible to visit Asinara by sailboat: daily excursions leave from the port of Stintino.
The first interesting stop is Cala Reale, where you can visit the “turtle hospital”.
Leaving Cala Reale we reach Cala Barche, where you can swim in its crystal clear waters and then have lunch, which is included in the price.
After lunch we set off to reach Cala d'Oliva, which is about 30 minutes away by boat.
Before returning to Stintino, a final swim in the turquoise waters of Cala del Bianco is planned.
>> Book now a day sailing trip to the island of Asinara from Stintino
Discover Asinara by catamaran: an unforgettable experience
Are you dreaming of a spectacular holiday full of sunshine, crystal clear waters and breathtaking landscapes? Then you cannot miss the opportunity to visit Asinara by catamaran. This experience will give you unforgettable moments of adventure and relaxation, with paradisiacal beaches, unspoilt flora and fauna, refreshing swims in the Mediterranean and dreamy sunsets.
Imagine the sea breeze caressing your face as you sail through the island's hidden coves in your Asinara catamaran. This type of boat offers many advantages: exceptional stability, plenty of space to relax on board and the ability to approach even the most treacherous beaches thanks to its shallow draught. Sailing on a catamaran also means enjoying breathtaking 360-degree panoramic views.
A visit to Asinara by catamaran will take you to the most fascinating places on the island. Like Cala Sabina, an earthly paradise with a sea of incredible colors. Or Cala d'Oliva, a small fishing village in the wilderness of the island, where you can appreciate the true beauty of Sardinia.
Returning to the harbour after a day spent exploring Asinara may seem sad, but not when the sun begins to set, offering one of the most exciting views you can imagine. The sky turns red and orange as the sun slowly sinks into the sea, reflecting its colours on the surface of the water.
>> Book now a catamaran day trip to Asinara Island from Stintino
How to get around Asinara
If you want to enjoy the island of Asinara on your own and not rely on one of the tours organized by the many tour companies, you can choose the bus as your means of transport.
Buses connect Cala Reale, Fornelli and Cala d'Oliva from mid-July to the beginning of September.
Where to eat on Asinara
On the island, you can eat fresh fish and local dishes at the Locanda del Parco, which has a beautiful terrace overlooking the small beach of Cala d'Oliva.
Other alternatives are the L'asino Bianco restaurant in Cala d'Oliva, with a good variety of dishes, SognAsinara, a simple hostel in an old barracks in Cala Reale, or the kiosk at the Fornelli jetty.
How to get to Asinara from Alghero
The island of Asinara can be reached by car or bus from Alghero.
With your own car, you can reach the small port of Stintino, 54 km away, in about 50 minutes along the Strada Provinciale 42 dei Due Mari.
Once in Stintino, park your car near the marina and take the ferry.
As an alternative to the car, you can take the bus from Alghero to the port of Stintino, which takes about twenty minutes longer than by car.
To reach Asinara, once you have reached the port of Stintino, take the ferry (without a car) in the direction of Fornelli.
The journey from Stintino to Fornelli is very short, about 20 to 30 minutes.
The Motonave Ausonia leaves at 9.30 and 10.30.
Return to Stintino is at 17.00 if you leave at 9.30 and at 18.00 if you leave an hour later.
For boarding you must arrive 15 minutes before the departure time.
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How to book a visit to Asinara
In order to fully enjoy an unforgettable experience on this unique island, the best thing to do is to book excursions to Asinara well in advance and organize yourself well in advance to avoid any inconvenience.